Photograph by Paolo Pellegrin/Magnum, for New York Look

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Fantasy and War Paint

Christian Dior

“I applied Makeup Forever silver glitter over the black shadow to create the effect of shiny, wet-looking lids that emulate the soulful greased eyes of Josephine Baker.”

Nina Ricci

“This look was inspired by the idea of girls coming home from a ball, slightly disheveled with their lips and eyes worn from a night of partying. The makeup is softly deconstructed with remnants of a brown, smoky eye smudged along the lid and lower lash line, and the lips left naturally rosy.”

John Galliano

“This look was inspired by flamenco dancers and the actress Rossy de Palma. It features dramatic colorful eyes framed by sweeping arched brows that extend out toward the temples. Brilliant red, fuchsia, and gold shadows were blended around the eyes in an expression of fiery Spanish color.”

Viktor & Rolf

“Porcelain doll skin, flushed cheeks, rose lacquered lips, and softly rendered eyes. Subtle pink highlights brushed along cheekbones and bridge of the nose made the skin brighter. Gold highlights at the inner eye corners gave the eyes a sparkling light.”


“The starting point was words like fantasy, Art Nouveau, young, and sexy. The eyes were smoldering black, overlaid with brilliant gold and ruby shadows to mimic the jeweled iridescent colors of an insect’s wing. The overall effect was ethereal.”