The Fall 2010 New York shows were a tour de force with themes that reflected creativity and craftsmanship. Garments were cut with shaped, cutaway, asymmetrical and uneven hems. Layering and texture mixing provided dimension to fall’s solid story as designers married fur, leather and metallics. Fur fit perfectly into fall’s focus on extraordinary luxe styles, as designers worked this versatile fabric into unique looks, from sporty to chic to purely elegant. Shaggy furs were a major story, while colored fur emerged as a close favorite. Capes, wraps, coats, stoles and jackets were turned out in a stunning array of coyote, Finn raccoon, fox, Mongolian lamb, mink, broadtail and sable. The statement was clear. Fur has become the ultimate luxury branding tool for designers, recognized worldwide.
Isaac Mizrahi
Ever the optimist, Isaac Mizrahi put on a pitch-perfect Central Park-inspired show. Bringing irrepressible enthusiasm to the tents, Mizrahi served up a collection offering chic ensembles, often with lush fox-trimmed hoods, to brave the elements. His collection mixed sport and dress offering signature parkas, anoraks, plaid, quilting, color and metallics. His first entrance maker: an orange dyed Calgan lamb coat over a plaid blouse and taffeta shorts. Mizrahi layered it up in a brown jacquard blazer over an orange dyed Golden Island fox and net sweater with plaid skirt as well as a SAGA slate glow fox sweater worn with a beige blazer and ankle grazing skirt. Add it all up – plaid, fox back packs and hoods, quilting to the hilt, metallics and fur and you’re decked out Mizrahi style.
J. Mendel
Gilles Mendel was inspired by elements of nature and Ryan McGinley’s vibrant photographs in creating his Fall 2010 collection. This collection, with a new downtown edge, featured an innovative blend of fabrications and fur focusing on lightweight textural styles, including a superb pecan dyed patchwork silver fox wrap and a chic muskrat and Finn raccoon asymmetrical belted vest. A sequined brown wool dress with fox epaulettes is sure to attract a younger crowd. Rich darks - brown, black, red and blue – gave an opulent edge to Mendel’s looks as in a black fitted Swakara coat with A-line collar. Known for sophisticated eveningwear, Mendel didn’t disappoint with his molten red mousseline dress worn with a dyed silver fox vest with sequin panel. A black dyed Kopenhagen Fur mink asymmetrical bolero reminded us of Mendel’s mastery. This new balance of downtown and uptown was a trip worth taking.
Brian Reyes
Strong streamlined silhouettes and voluminous shapes dominated the Fall 2010 collection of Brian Reyes. Reyes’ unique fabrics were influenced by trips to arboretums and the beauty and tranquility of autumnal nature. His palette was evident in a blackened amber sheared mink jacket worn with a satin skirt that was pure sculpture as was his cocoon shaped cobalt fox coat. Reyes wove texture through his collection in a chevron patterned blue-green fox car coat worn over a sleek sweater dress and an ultra-elegant black chevron fox scarf. Reyes’ thoughtful collection effectively reinforced the season’s sculptural story.
Proenza Schouler
Design duo Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough offered an edgy spin for fall, offering cool school girl looks. Varsity looks, plaids, leather and fur were woven through the collection and paired with their new scribble patterned denim. There were smart girl suits such as a blue fox boyfriend blazer with knit collar over a short pencil skirt and a navy battle jacket with dyed blue silver fox collar and striped skirt. Varsity jackets with dyed fox collars were tough and flirty at the same time. A short black skirt with dyed fox hem was sexy and modern. Proenza Schouler’s take on the sweater and skirt – a shaggy black Mongolian cropped top over a flippy school girl skirt. Proenza Schouler’s too cool for school styles rate an A.
Adrienne Landau
Designer Adrienne Landau’s fall presentation was a fun filled romp offering a tongue in cheek look at fashion in lush, fur-filled vignettes with titles such as “Furtopia”, “Leopard Lounge” and “Fur Tea”. Known for chic, glamorous furs, Landau covered all the bases for fall. Bringing a new dimension to chunky knits, Landau offered a gray knit rex rabbit sweater with an oversized cowl neck. Her styling of a stretch fox headband worn with fox earmuffs and a cropped white Mongolian vest worn over a black pieced fox crop jacket showed new directions in layering and versatility, each piece working separately or together. Color was a big story here in a purple jaguar print fox chubby, a fuchsia curly lamb crop vest and an oversized lime green jaguar print scarf and matching cloche hat. In a setting of surrounding leopard printed goat Ms. Landau showcased a savagely sexy animal print patchwork poncho with crystal fox and fringe and a must-have leopard print mink cropped jacket.
Accessory Round Up
They say the best things can come in small packages and this season’s fur accessories prove that to be true. From head to toe - fox hoods at Chado Ralph Rucci and Michael Kors to Adrienne Landau’s leopard print goat stretch boot sleeves - and all points in between, fur accessories told the tale of the season. The beret was the top hat at both Oscar de la Renta who showed beaver, mink and lapin versions, and at Pamella Roland, who featured a ranch mink beret. There were fur handbags galore, including a super chic NAFA red fox evening look at Oscar de la Renta and a leather and fox clutch at Michael Kors. Luxe sport bags were the rage at Malandrino, who featured a braided fringe Kidassia sac bag and at Mizrahi where a red fox backpack set the sporty tone. There were enough gloves to keep the city chicly warm, including Chris Benz’ fun colored fox mittens and Brian Reyes chevron fox mittens. For a modern, flirty alternative to keep those hands cozy Mendel showed a richly colored fox muff. Dennis Basso showed brilliant creativity with a gunmetal fox and alligator sleeve providing the perfect balance to a black lace gown. At Wayne, designer Wayne Lee showed a cross-the-body raccoon tie stole. Colored fur was the topic at Peter Som and Anna Sui, with a purple sequin Mongolian lamb one shoulder stole at the former and a jade green fox stole at the latter. Carolina Herrera’s embroidered blue fox scarf beautifully offset a deep red wool and chevron pleated lamb jacket. For evening Oscar’s white rabbit stole tied over an emerald green gown was the perfect finishing touch for the season.
Origin Assured
The OA label demonstrates the fur industry’s commitment to sustainable and responsible practices by providing assurance that the fur in a garment or fur accessory bearing the OA™ symbol originates from a country where national or local regulations governing fur production are in force.
Only fur from approved species, sourced from approved countries, which is sold through participating auction houses is entitled to carry the OA™ label.
For more information on the OA™ label visit www.originassured.com
Only fur from approved species, sourced from approved countries, which is sold through participating auction houses is entitled to carry the OA™ label.
For more information on the OA™ label visit www.originassured.com