Luxe continued its march down New York Fashion Week’s runways as each designer’s vision was reflected in fabulous fur of every sort and style. The New York collections have shown the creativity and diversity that will confirm the Big Apple’s dominant role in fashion as well as the new directions in fur design that have played a prominent role.
Marc Jacobs is that rare designer who is part showman, part merchandiser, part visionary. When you put it all together it adds up to spectacular, which also describes the designer’s fall collection. Jacobs took the essential ingredients for the season - neutrals, metallics, knits, sequins and fur – and turned them out in beautifully crafted, superbly cut shapes including three piece suits, singular sweaters, and stunning coats. Some of the stars: a pale gray wool coat, wrapped at the hip with a lavish goat border and Mongolian lamb collar and cuffs and a rich, comfy ivory alpaca coat with Mongolian lamb trim. Mongolian lamb also trimmed a brown crosshatch wool wrap coat touched with metallic for a standout look. Jacob’s furs aren’t limited to outerwear. His fresh takes include fur top handle “It” bags, an artfully knitted mink fashioned into a chic little two piece dress and a relaxed fur cardigan. A collar in NAFA natural raccoon adds a touch of luxe drama to a taupe jersey gown. Jacobs’ scope as a designer continues to amaze.
Watching a Michael Kors show is akin to attending a great party that you don’t want to leave and his Fall 2010 presentation was no exception. There’s a superstar quality to Kors’ designs that was evident from his opening runway statement - a luxe coyote vest worn over a deeply veed bodysuit, suede boots and little else. This is American sportswear at it’s best – fitted Melton coats, often ‘70s styled, lean ankle-grazing knits with oversized cowls, classic, easy skirts with sexy blouses and smart tailored jackets and pants delivered in warm camel, gray and winter white, with the added sparkle of cool metallics. No one does relaxed, chic outerwear better than Kors as he showed in a sporty cross fox anorak and a sensational silver storm coat with silver fox hood. Kors put a major focus on fur – fox, fisher, nutria, coyote and shearling – in coats, vests, skirts, sportswear and statement accessories. Two standouts: a triple belted brown sable patchwork coat and a silver fox hooded coat with feathered hem. Kors’ smashing collection with its versatile luxe investment pieces is perfectly on target for the modern American woman.
Oscar de la Renta
In a collection sure to leave his core customers delighted, Oscar de la Renta served up ultra-chic opulence for fall dressed up in deep jewel tones – magenta, emerald, lapis, gold, olive and red. A cinnamon alpaca coat with cross fox border opened the show and was the first of many fur trimmed styles that followed for day, including both natural and colored furs. A cinnamon alpaca coat with orchid alpaca collar was a winning combination, as de la Renta amped up his lavish use of fur – chinchilla, sable, mink, fisher, Finn raccoon and broadtail - on citified coats, jackets, skirts and dresses. The significant pairing of black and white was evident in a graphic coat double bordered in black fox and red sequins. There was more color for play at evening which shone in a stunning emerald green gown complemented with a white fox stole, a stylish ending to a perfectly polished collection.
Charm, sophistication and flirtation describe both designer Ashleigh Verrier and her namesake collection, Verrier. The young talent, known for her feminine designs and beautifully detailed shapes, presented a fall collection inspired by both Coco Chanel and Wallis Simpson, with references to the ‘20s and ‘50s. Verrier has a charming way with color and pattern, mixing muted colorations with vintage style floral and home furnishing-inspired prints as in a slim mink coat with gathered sleeve and print lining topping a slim floral sheath and a dusty blue beaded wool coat with a beribboned fox collar. Sable is fashioned into both a capelet and a shrug; perfect with a quick silver beaded top and full trouser or print dress. Verrier’s shapely spotted goat jacket with mink collar is ideal for her pretty young things to wear for a walk on the wild side. Verrier’s talent continues to shine in this whimsical collection long on both charm and talent.
Dennis Basso showed a chic, confident collection highlighted by lush, opulent furs and amazing new shapes and cuts that enveloped the body in richly dark colorations
– aubergine, forest green, charcoal, smoky topaz and gunmetal. The artistry employed by the designer was evident in coats that were worked, front to back, in intricate and often different patterns. Basso artfully juxtaposed sable with alligator, broadtail or ermine and blended chinchilla with fox and feathers to deliver statement-making jackets and coats. Stunning examples included his gunmetal Russian broadtail and fox coat topping a flowing black chiffon gown and his ultra-luxe hand-painted black velvet chinchilla jacket with black Russian broadtail. A Russian Barguzine sable and alligator jacket and an alligator coat with alpaca and fox gave new meaning to sporty ultra-chic. His hand-painted black velvet chinchilla coat proved that Basso continues to define luxury. Pure glamour, pure chic, purely fabulous.
Zac Posen explored sensuality in his fall 2010 collection. A flattering palette of neutrals and cosmetic toned satins, florals and brocades added femininity to his ‘40s inspired suits and flippy skirts while his evening looks offered pretty, body-conscious draped dresses in satin and sheers. Posen played with volume and shape in a platinum and dyed orange fox and camel felt coat. Color was a clear favorite in Posen’s furs, evident in a NAFA natural and green dyed fisher and fox coat and a magenta fisher coat with fox trim. A sheared black mink and sable bubble shaped mini coat, inspired by the ‘60s, epitomized Posen’s sense of fun.