Pines partners Seth Weissman, Andrew Kirtzman, and Matthew Blesso.    (Photo: Ian Allen)

Eric Lemonides, co-owner of the Almond restaurants in Manhattan and Bridgehampton, took over the food service—putting upscale seafood in the Blue Whale and takeaway bites at Canteen with naughty names like “the House Boy” (turkey, brie, and apples on a baguette) and “the Trick” (prosciutto, salami, and shaved grana); Weissman vetoed “the Three Twinks” (chicken, tuna, and egg salad). Lemonides (also gay) hired a small army of staff, some of whom are certified lifeguards and licensed to drive a boat, and all of whom are hot.

During focus groups, residents voiced concerns that the Pines would get too fancy, that it would stop being relaxed. But it’s not cheap or bohemian, and the crowd tends toward the well-maintained young professional. Though there’s still much drinking, drugging, and licentiousness in the Pines—that’s sort of the point—some old-timers grouse that the newcomers are a bit prim. Instead of the romantically wounded hidden isle of Dancer From the Dance, the new cultural tone is set by last summer’s YouTube hit “Party in the FIP,” made on a laptop by 28-year-old Esquire marketing man David Fudge. It included his cute friends frolicking around, lip-synching Miley Cyrus’s “Party in the USA”; Cyrus herself tweeted the link, saying: “I AM OBSESSED with this video!”

“There was no statement,” said Fudge. “We were just trying to have fun out at the beach.” This is enough for Weissman, as long as they come over for Tea.

Related:

• Archive: “Guides”
• Articles by Chris Rovzar
• Table of Contents: Jun 28, 2010 issue of New York | Subscribe!