“Scallops are probably one of the mildest shellfish around, especially in contrast to something like oysters or crab. We put a little salt and pepper on, and warm it briefly with a blowtorch. That blackens the pepper, giving it a toasty texture. And it’s a nice contrast in temperature from the rest of the dish.”
“Chamomile is so floral, and I wanted to use it, but it’s only fresh for two weeks out of the year. So I make a chamomile tea and season it with honey, lemon juice, and salt, and then freeze it. It stays a beautiful shade of green.”
“It’s there mostly for texture: When it gets very cold, soba is a little chewy, which is lovely against the scallops.”
“That’s the salty component of the dish. I like the brininess it brings, which is something the scallops, being mild, miss. And then noodles need something to make it unctuous and ‘creamalicious,’ so we use a little tomato oil, really just extra-virgin olive oil reserved from roasted tomatoes.”
“This is another salty element. But it also brings an oceanic herbaciousness to a seafood dish; it’s the equivalent in the ocean to basil on land.”
“It’s just there to add a little bit of crunch to the dish. And a little bit of vegetable color.”