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The very things that annoy locals about Tavern on the Green are what make it irresistible to its many fans: the infinite mirrors, the vast chandeliers, the gilded-age décor, the roaming photographer, the enormous gift shop, even the glum liveried functionary standing in the bathroom. So what if the Eisenhower-era menu is strictly an afterthought? A few simple dishes—like a large, unpretentious pork chop or a massive piece of prime rib—stand up as respectable eats if you’re dragged along with a gaggle of tourist or as part of some massive reception. So while foodies bemoan how Tavern on the Green is the antithesis of every advance in restaurant culture of the last 30 years, take note: This place will outlive every hot trend of the next 30, too. — Josh Ozersky