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Soho Room's atmosphere is a decorous blend of corner tavern functionality, wine-bar haughtiness and opium-den opulence. Universally attractive staffers shake or stir the full pantheon of up-to-the-minute mixed drinks (and pour the usual Yuengling/Stella/Guinness tap options) at the narrow, stone-topped bar. Universally attractive patrons fill the back lounge, shielded from outside scrutiny by crimson velvet curtains. Mirrors on virtually every wall encourage sidelong glances and coquetry. Still, 203 Spring is mercifully free of meat-rack desperation, functioning just as well as either an easygoing after-work hang or a date-friendly, after-dinner canoodling hut. — Bruce Bennett