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That this seductive wine bar’s smoking patio abuts a housing project speaks of change in the nightlife netherworld between the Lower East Side and SoHo. The owners—former downtown wine shop/restaurant day-jobbers— aim to stand out among their ubiquitous Italian counterparts by offering reasonably priced, mostly French varieties from small, up-and-coming vintners based in unsung regions such as Languedoc-Roussillon: The Dom. St. Antonin “Les Jardins,” made in the cellar of a Fougeres estate, is a full, fruity red; the Dom. Labbe Vin de Savoie “Abymes” is a medium-bodied white that’s hard to come by. A few Portuguese, Spanish, and Chilean wines are thrown in for good measure. In the back lounge, which can be reserved for large parties, couches of Italian leather are surrounded by Jules Verne-type bronze lamps and brick walls housing cabinets of wine. Quiches, a plate of French cheeses, and a charcuterie spread distinguished by Alsatian foie gras mousse can also be relished, on holidays, at the front bar (surrounded by dark-wood communal tables) as recorded jazz is piped in overhead. — Daniel Maurer