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The vertical marquee gleaming above Grand St. would be ostentatious if it weren’t a loving tribute to Rose, the Sicilian mother of owner Carlo Vutera. His grandmother’s wallpaper is one of the many elements imported from Europe to accent a spacious room previously used as a sweatshop. World music performances (usually free) lend further character to the generic milieu of dark wood, amber light globes, and horseshoe-shaped-booths facing the stage. The deep brown graphite bar serves Guinness and Hoegaarden from a light-up dispenser, but samba, Afro-beat, and tango are best complimented with a reasonably priced caipirinha or a mojito mixed with champagne instead of soda if so desired. In the back, a garden patio was installed with the expectation of a stand-up piano to play silent-movie music. But maybe someday, Vutera, who studied opera in Cuba, will sing along, too. — Daniel Maurer