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Home > Nightlife & Music > Stove

Stove

45-17 28th Ave., Queens, NY 11103 40.763562 -73.909562
nr. 45th St.  See Map | Subway Directions Hopstop Popup
718-956-0372 Send to Phone

  • Reader Rating: Write a Review
  • Scene: Bar Food, Outdoor Area, Restaurant & Bar

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Official Website

stoveastoria.com

Nearby Subway Stops

M, R at 46th St.

Payment Methods

MasterCard, Visa

Profile

This venue is closed.

The challenge for Stove chef-owner Declan Cass is to attract both the old-timers and the Manhattan transplants in rapidly gentrifying eastern Astoria. His solution is to look like he’s playing it safe. Stove’s long, narrow dining room is primly done in nautical white, with a tile floor. (The mustard yellow-walled bar area adds a splash of color.) Tried-and-true renditions of beef, pork, chicken, fish, and pasta dot the menu. But while the Irish-born chef’s far-ranging menu bends to the something-for-everyone philosophy, with dishes like roasted beet salad and mid-century Continental dishes like Chicken Kiev for the mom-and-pop crowd, the cooking transcends the formulaic.  A one-pound shell steak—Stove’s priciest entree, and well worth it—is artfully cut, tenderly cooked, and accompanied by a fresh-made peppercorn cream. It’s not easy for a neighborhood restaurant to appeal to disparate locals, but Stove is gambling that New Yorkers, no matter what ilk, will respond to good food.

Extra

Stove’s handsome carved-wood bar is a comfort station for single diners, where they savor solo meals composed of chef Declan Cass’s soup du jour and ample ribs appetizer or a well-composed Cobb salad, all washed down with a glass of pinot noir.

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