Sun-Thu, closed; Fri-Sat, 6pm-midnight
L at Bedford Ave.
Zenkichi’s sake and oyster bar appears to have just sprung up around the tree that sprouts from the middle of the floor and towers above the skylight roof. The earthy dark wood interior and painted white trellis evoke an indoor garden, and the intimacy of the 40-seat space keeps the scene relatively tranquil. The extensive sake list is clearly meant to be savored in relative quiet, perhaps accompanied by one of the seasonal oyster selections. Don’t arrive too hungry; the limited food menu consists of mainly raw, very small plates. The Fisherman’s Shooter—a shot of oyster, uni, dashi (bonito broth), yuzu pepper and a quail egg—is a refreshing standout. The cocktails offer creative combinations like the summery Bee’s Devotion: shochu, yuzu juice, wildflower honey, and yuzu peel.
Picnics with a view, roller-skating nostalgia, and a party for gay headbangers.