Profile

Thirtysomethings making the move from bohemia into yuppiedom fill this chic French-Moroccan bistro, chatting about art openings and hot stocks over early-evening cocktails. Nonchalantly elegant, it's a place to go when you don't feel like dressing to impress but want something more refined than a beer at the corner pub. Crimson banquettes, a copper-topped bar, rickety wooden tables and specials printed in baroque gold type on wall mirrors create a retro-cool bistro vibe. Unfortunately, with such intimacy come close, cluttered quarters. During the night's peak hours, snagging a seat in the teeny bar area—or, better yet, a sidewalk table—becomes a maddening game of chance.   — David Amsden