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Cozy as a cellar but offering an airy lookout onto Seventh Avenue, Beer Table’s one long room is an intimate space—there’s room for eight at each of the bar’s three wide tables—that crowds slowly. Inside, the dim glow of lanterns fashioned from canning jars could be utilized to distract patrons from a subpar specialty-draft list; thankfully, Beer Table’s menu is the real deal. The stock (usually around six specialty drafts, plus two dozen or so bottles, a soda line, and a cask) is painstakingly chosen and rotated almost daily by owner and former beer importer Justin Philips. The excellent selection of small plates changes as much as the draft list and matches the beer flavor for flavor. — Tom Blunt

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