Bombay Bread Bar

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80 Good

Chef Floyd Cardoz revamped his former spot Paowalla into this hypercolor dreamland where the focus is on carbs and party vibes.

195 Spring St., New York, NY, 10012


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The lowdown

When Floyd Cardoz opened Paowalla in 2016, he told Grub that he felt Indian food remained narrowly defined in the United States. It was his goal at the Soho restaurant, as at his first restaurant Tabla, to expand Americans’ ideas about his native country’s many cuisines. The restaurant was met with warm reviews but, after opening, Cardoz himself says he detected a disconnect, saying the restaurant was “turning out to be more of an expense-account thing” than he had originally anticipated. With that in mind, Cardoz hit pause, shuttered the restaurant in early 2017, and revamped it as Bombay Bread Bar. The new restaurant is a festive frenzy of colors. Cardoz has always had a way with bread (his fans still talk about Tabla’s bread bar, seven years after its closing), and carbs are, it goes without saying, a focus. There are a couple of new kulchas — chicken-chickpea; leek and potato — and laccha paratha, a whole-wheat flatbread layered with ghee. The bulk of the menu is made up of small plates, like Bombay bhel puri, the puffed rice chaat (or savory street snack); chickpea-battered onion rings; and a South Indian beef samosa with cucumber-coconut raita. There’s also a saag-paneer pizza that’s a riff on a Punjabi dish called makki di roti, mustard greens with corn paratha and white butter.

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What you need to know

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized