Mon-Tue and Thu-Sun, noon-4am; Wed, 7pm-4am
R at 86th St.
The vibe at this neighborhood standby is classier than its frat name and cartoon nameplate would imply: The vast interior vaguely resembles a clipper ship with parquet floors and a pitched, beamed ceiling; plans and photographs of the Gowanus Expressway and Verrazano Bridge hang framed on the walls; and Art Deco lamps of stained glass grace the long bar. Aside from the obligatory Bud Lite dispensed by a glowing tap handle, drafts like Original Sin Cider show much deeper consideration. (There's a reason the number is 718-567-BEER.) Patrons take their pitchers, which run as low as $7, back to a brick-lined room with three dartboards and a single pool table. The latter is put to good use judging by the numerous victory plaques from the Bay Bridge Budweiser Pool League.
Picnics with a view, roller-skating nostalgia, and a party for gay headbangers.