There’s a long-running debate as to whether the name stands for “doing business as,” “don’t bother asking,” or “drink better ale.” We’ll argue for the latter: d.b.a. boasts more than 60 varieties of beer, from hand-pulled ales and seasonal boutique microbrews to fruit-infused lambics. A hefty list of single-malt Scotches and tequilas are also available. A giant, covered back patio does a convincing impression of a Bavarian beer garden — and creates breathing room. After work and on weekends, the crush of khaki can be unbearable, as can the wait for attention from behind the bar.