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While its East Village outpost enjoys near-crushing weeknight popularity, the Williamsburg version of beer-geek mecca d.b.a. is markedly more sedate, with the feeling (and, unfortunately, décor) of a rarely trafficked Starbucks—a long bar up front, angled chalkboard menus hanging overhead, and ample, nondescript seating in back. The patio out back adds a bit of interest to an otherwise uninspired space. What d.b.a. lacks in energy, however, it makes up for in libations: sixteen taps that might pull Belgian Kira White, O'Hara's Celtic Stout, or a Sixpoint from around the corner; a list of spirits that goes far beyond Jameson, such as twelve-year-aged Red Breast Irish whiskey; and three rotating hand-drawn, cask-conditioned ales. If only a particular brew will do, there are dozens more beers by the bottle. How to make sense of the hoppy madness? Tap the competent barkeeps’ brain—or just ask for a sample. — Carey Jones