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Walk down a dingy flight of stairs to enter this low-lit, speakeasy-like highlight of Ninth Street's pocket-sized Tokyo. The wait staff prowls about with rock star panache, replenishing your box from a dazzling arsenal of sake. More than seventy rice wines of every conceivable price and type are warmed or chilled to intoxicating perfection, whether tossed down straight or sipped as a saketini. A plucky menu features over twenty traditional Japanese snacks and soups; try okonomiyaki, the house specialty pancake. — Matt Kelly