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710 Fulton St.,
Brooklyn, NY 11217
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Der Schwarze Kölner, Fort Greene’s first beer garden—its name means “The Black Person From Cologne,” in honor of Dale Hall, the Manchester-born and Cologne-raised owner—has a whopping eighteen German microbrews on tap, and another thirty in bottles. The brews are arranged by type (pilsner, lager, etc), and there are plenty of umlauts punctuating the Gothic names. There’s easy-eating fare, like bratwurst and jumbo pretzels, as well. The big communal tables, equipped with old wooden pews or hard-backed folding chairs, and placed above a black-and-white checkered floor, leave a lot of room in the stark interior. There isn’t much in the way of comfort—but then again, you can buy a liter of good booze here for $12, and at that point you may not need a throw pillow. The scene is calmed-down Fort Greene hipster—beards but no keffiyeh’s—that siphons some of the masses flocking to Habana Outpost, just down the street.
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