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Draft Barn lives up to its name: The voluminous Hungarian beer hall, with its rustic wood-and-brick architecture, would indeed make a suitable shelter for cattle. The beer list—hand-plucked by lifelong beer student and owner, George Mitelman, who runs a sister establishment in Sheepshead Bay—is formidable, now at 250 bottles but ever-expanding, and comes from the world’s four corners. There are also fourteen taps dispensing frothy treasures such as a creosote-colored but light-tasting Czech beer and a brew that Mitelman acquired by sheer luck from a now-defunct Belgium company. The menu reflects the owner’s Eastern European upbringing and is hit-or-miss: The sausage and goulash standards don’t make much of an impression, but dishes like the pig knuckle and the “gypsy steak”—a pan-fried pork slab stuffed with onions, sausage, and bacon—are wonderful gut-bombs for those with the fortitude to spar with such heavy fair. — John Metcalfe

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