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Sasha Petraske's sophomore effort is a bit of a bait and switch: Like his original bar, the legendary Milk & Honey, it's a narrow, speakeasy hideaway decked out in pressed-tin and candles on Chinatown's fringe. But to some extent the drink selection is Milk & Honey Lite. When a staple like fresh ginger is missing, the bartender concocts suitable substitutes like the Presbyterian, a simple, zippy blend of ginger beer and rye whiskey. Milk & Honey disciples will lament the lack of eggs and fresh grapefruit behind the handsome zinc bar, but the casual bargoer won't mind the cheaper prices. Premium liquors and choice ingredients like honey and cucumber remedy the situation somewhat, as do the addition of a few elements that its precursor lacked: a democratic no-reservations policy, lower prices, and a small back room wallpapered in muted DayGlo stripes where weekend DJs spin house music. — Daniel Maurer

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