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The classic English gentleman's club gets a nearly edgy, slightly naughty update: The front salon is dotted with skull lamps and leather banquettes perforated with spiked studs, while the middle lounge has chandeliers shaped like houses of cards and walls covered in poker-table felt. A 1972 issue of Playboy is mounted behind glass in the bathroom. There’s not a whiff of naughtiness, however, on the downright pleasant back patio, where sophisticated small plates are served alfresco or under a retracting roof. In the avocado gazpacho an orb of passion-fruit sorbet floats, and a cheeseburger is served "crispy"—the overhanging cheese cooked to a chiplike texture in an iron skillet. — John Metcalfe

Elizabeth channels Long Island in its Sunday-evening lobster boils, with precracked lobsters and sausage served in bowls, alongside corn fritters and buckets of beer.

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