Profile

EN Brasserie Japanese once kept a sake lounge in its airy, rectangular space to the right of the restaurant’s entry, but once shochu became all the rage, they erected towering rice-paper scrims around the four communal tables and redecorated the small bar with ceramic decanters and glowing jars of infused shochu. The 30 flavors honor both the traditional (dusty-tasting soba, spicy awamori, sweet potato) and less commonplace (black sesame, sugarcane, carrot) takes on the Japanese spirit. As enlightening as a flight of the various versions may be, flashier drinkers may prefer one of the cocktails: The ginger martini uses Japanese oranges to delicious effect; the Seppun tastes like a floral mojito thanks to yuzu and grapefruit juices plus fresh shiso leaf; and the Black Sugar Sour tastes like a curious mixture of maple syrup and soy sauce despite having neither ingredient. — Daniel Maurer