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It's all about the vino at this offshoot of I Trulli: more than forty all-Italian varieties chosen by owner Nicola Marzovilla. Connoisseurs will appreciate rare selections from the Puglia region, but if you don't know a Chianti from a Merlot, the soft-spoken bartenders will make spot-on recommendations given even the vaguest criteria. Order one of the flights—two-ounce tasting portions of three wines, priced from $12 to $20—to get a well-rounded sampling from a particular region or type of grape. As for atmosphere, the marble-topped bar evokes a trattoria in Apulia—which, by the way, is the heel of Italy's boot. — Jenifer Van Vleck

If you liked what you tasted here, stop by Vino (121 East 27th Street) to purchase a few bottles for your own racks from their selection of more than 400 Italian labels.