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In Zak Pelaccio’s short-term replacement for Cabrito, the punchy colors of his former Mexican spot have been traded for muted hues, a blank slate appropriate to the rotating cast of local guest bartenders that stop by a few nights a week. On the mixologists’ nights off, there’s a house cocktail list, including the standout ‘Cue (originated across the river), a smoky, citrusy blend of rum, sour yuzu, smoked pineapple, Tabasco, and Pernod. The edibles, however, give hint that Fatty is still sorting out its kinks. A starter of warm oysters is overwhelmed by the dish’s other ingredients, including chunks of potato that all but obscure the mollusks’ signature slippery texture, while a special of grilled sardines came with a warm and salty “pork emulsion” chaser (presented in a shot glass), original but not particularly tasty. More solid are creamy, dill-flecked deviled eggs, a collage of house-pickled produce, and a winner of a juicy, pillow-bunned cheeseburger that’s certain to start hitting top-ten lists soon. In all, a trip to Fatty’s is not a perfect experience, but that’s to be expected from an admittedly slapped-together operation. The gusto with which everything is carried out – the good and the bad – is what will keep you coming back, until the inevitable day Pelaccio lets the air out. — Jenny Miller