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We may still have a ways to go before we reach another golden age of the cocktail, but this handsomely renovated lounge is a big step in that direction. Partner Julie Reiner takes a cheflike approach to her craft, so you can count on plenty of fresh juices, much muddling and mincing, and precision layers of flavors—not to mention a rotating cocktail menu that, as chefs like to say, changes with the season.