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Sure, with opulent chandeliers and old, smoky mirrors, upscale cocktail-centric bar Hotel Delmano in Williamsburg has all the trappings of any other faux-speakeasy. But from the moment you walk in, there is something refreshingly authentic about this place from the owners of Union Pool. The many old-timey cocktails on the menu help, like the Rattlesnake made with rye, absinthe, and egg whites, or a refreshing concoction of St. Germain and thyme-infused gin, cheekily called the San Francisco Handshake. Even a robust choice like the 3 Amigos, which includes a can of Tecate, a shot of tequila, and small glass of sangrita gets a dose of quaint treatment, its glasses served side-by-side on an antique tray. The staff also plays the part, sporting suspenders and wingtips. You can saddle up to the long, curving marble bar, or take a seat in the back in one of the two cozy rooms with either turquoise or burnt-orange walls adorned with portraits of old, important-looking people. Oysters and a short list of small plates like olives, cheese boards, and pâtés round out the mix. — Randi Eichenbaum