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Curries yes, cocktails no—that’s been the word on Indian cuisine for nearly all of its lengthy history. But Junoon, Vikas Khanna’s new entry in haute subcontinental cuisine, tries to rewrite that history with a spacious anteroom for India-ish drinks. But while the Sparkling Saffron has a pleasant tang, too many of the specialty cocktails are overly fruity and fluffy, at odds with the club’s rather stiff atmosphere. More of a piece is the obsidian black bar, and the Nehru-jacketed bartenders ready with a bottle of Kingfisher that, at the very least, is a lot colder than you’re likely to get in Delhi. — Bryan Walsh