Profile

It’s a refreshing reversal to see Klimat—Polish for “vibe” or “atmosphere”—proudly hanging its ¯ywiec sign in this former blintze-filled haven for East Village immigrants. Of course, the pierogi-and-beer routine has been updated a bit with dim lighting and a mid-priced menu of trout and pastas. But make no mistake, Klimat is a beer hall: Communal tables with wooden benches encourage intermingling between nouveau Villagers and Euro transplants gossiping in Polish. Beer connoisseurs will enjoy an impressive Pan–Eastern European selection, while indecisive guzzlers can sample three choices for free before taking the plunge into a hefty, 16.9-ounce draft. (Until 7 p.m., the same goes for the offbeat wine selection from Bulgaria, Georgia, and Montenegro.) After 11:30 p.m., the menu switches to appetizers only (like the thinly-sliced-sausage-and-cucumber dish called Spicy Worms). After a few pints of Krušovice, you won’t have room for much else. — Keach Hagey