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There’s something about tapping your own tableside keg of Spaten that makes inhibitions vanish, and that’s the real magic of this German beer hall, which stirs up a carnivalesque atmosphere while plying the crowd with fine weissbeers and wursts. Set among the quiet brownstones of the West Village, the restaurant keeps a fairly conventional bar up front, sporting German flags, Oktoberfest tees and a couple of televisions, as well as a recessed “stammtisch room,” with couches seating six around a decorative fireplace. But the action loudens in the beer hall at back which is filled with banquet tables and pushed together two-tops, then surrounded by a mural of green Bavarian mountains. The partiers, who cross age, style and neighborhood boundaries, maintain a strong Teutonic fan base, some of whom might be seen spanking the birthday girl or boy with a riding crop. The food and drink also have a nice bite—sweet, zesty grilled brats with homemade mustard, mildly spiced currywursts and crisp potato pancakes paired with refreshing German pilsners, lagers and double bocks. — Karen Hudes

For $65, groups can share the Lederhosen Haus Special: a selection of sausages, bread and homemade mustard, plus a 5-liter mini-barrel of beer. The bar also has seasonal deals, for occasions like Oktoberfest and February’s Carnival.