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The name, the velvet rope and the doorman suggest a self-serious air, but on the inside, this triple-decker Lower East Side destination is as laid-back as can be for a place that breaks the $10 cocktail barrier. The colors are warm yet clean, with muted squares of cocoa and gold, plummy brown banquettes and an illuminated orange panel along the bar top. Attractive groups and couples—stylish button-down shirts on the guys—dine downstairs, and cozy up with drinks on the mezzanine. Skilled bartenders take good care of their customers, mixing Sidecars and top-shelf margaritas, along with such pleasers as the Ultimate Libation, a lively Mango Gem, and an ultra-fresh East Sider, made with Hendrick's gin, muddled mint, club soda and a cucumber slice. After dinner on the weekend the bar remains roomy, then fills up—not uncomfortably so—in a flash. — Karen Hudes

The third floor may be reserved for private parties, and can hold up to 150 people.