The bartenders wear suspenders and many of the old speakeasy rules still apply (no talking loudly or misbehaving) at this kind, gentle permutation of a speakeasy from the late hallowed drinkslinger Sasha Petraske. Inside, expect a warm color scheme of mustard-painted walls and low ceilings made from orange-painted sheets of corrugated steel. An old standup piano occasionally used by jazz trios also lightens up the subterranean location. Yet, although the vibe is loose, the mixology is still rigorous: The staff arrives two hours ahead of opening to squeeze fresh juice, chill glasses, and cut blocks of ice (to keep the drinks from diluting quickly). Name your favorite liquor and they’ll give you an encyclopedic list of old-fashioned cocktails and egg flips that incorporate it. Yes, they may serve the best mojito this side of Havana, but why settle for that when they also make the Trinidadian version: the Queens Park Swizzle. An abundance of booths makes walk-ins a cinch. But for a lesson in libations, the true alcohol aficionados will stand at the bar.