Parisian barman Nico de Soto is a veteran of the Paris and London stations of the quirky French-born Experimental Cocktail Club empire, where things are done with a bit more insane flourish than they are in tradition-bound New York. With Mace, he’s trying to rattle the locals with unlikely liquid combinations in which a single informing spice is surrounded by the likes of pistachio-oil-fat-washed vodka, snap-pea shrub, and oat orgeat. The back bar looks like a laboratory, with rows upon rows of jarred spices. What to drink: The namesake cocktail may have a mace mist, but it’s the Aperol and beet juice that dominate its sunny, glad-to-meet-you personality. It’s a good place to start.