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Absinthe and oysters are the draw at this immaculately-executed, old world charmer from La Barricou’s Joshua Boissy. A U-shaped marble bar frames the room’s centerpiece: a Napoleon-topped absinthe fountain; the top-notch staff will be happy to explain the history of its laborious construction. There’s dollar-an-oyster happy hour (4-7pm, 17+ varieties), a dozen-plus absinthes, and an otherwise compact, yet superb beer and wine list (bottles available). Such popularity necessitates a maitre d’ (this ain’t no Coney Island buck-a-shuck) who efficiently get patrons seated, drink and oyster menus in hand. And while the real people-watching takes place up front, the tables in back offer a little extra elbow room and view of the oyster shuckers at work. True, the fixed-gear crowd is out-numbered here, but the democratizing happy hour and moderately priced drinks doesn’t make this just the purview of the Williamsburg Condo Club. — Patrick Siggins

Oyster eaters be forewarned: while the window seats up front offer some tempting breathing room from the crowd, food is only served at the bar and tables in the rear.

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