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Sepia-toned prints, voluptuous banquettes and a mahogany-paneled ceiling—Onieal's has all the trappings of a classic Gotham men's club. As chatty, clean-cut bartenders straight out of L.L. Bean pour you prosperous-looking cocktails, it's easy to feel rather well adjusted. Best not to linger, though: All the tasteful restraint and polished precision can get a little unnerving when you realize that what you're basically enjoying is the overstuffed banality of hotel lobbies and suburban country clubs. — Andrew Yamato