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Concealed behind freshly spray-painted doors emblazoned tiki bar, this spot in the old East Side Company Bar space is wedged into a narrow, windowless room thick with bamboo shoots and red suedey booths, all intended to make you lose track of time—think decades, not hours. Many of the sixties-kitsch swizzles, frozens, and daiquiris ($12 to $18) are prepared by the bartenders omakase style (meaning you pick a category, they pick your drink). Another selection, called “The Bastards,” requires customers’ morbid specifications as to how they want it: “suffering” (gin and bourbon), “dying” (gin, bourbon, and cognac), “dead” (gin, bourbon, cognac, and rum), or "inglorious" (four kinds of rum)—each treatment coming with a flourish of crystallized ginger, cucumber, and orange.

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