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318 Van Brunt St.,
Brooklyn, NY 11231
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Mon-Fri,
3pm-6pm; two-for-one beers
Sat-Sun,
2pm-5pm; two-for-one beers
F, G at Smith-9th Sts.
MasterCard, Visa
This venue is closed.
Those without brightly inked shoulders or steel-toed boots might feel out of place at this dimly lit dive where northern Brooklynites are considered “tourists.” Don’t despair. Past the bar, the tiny open kitchen, and the billiards room decorated with road signs and bland art lies a more inviting scene: an open-air lounge where picnic tables perch on a wide gravel lane bordering a narrow court for tossing horseshoes and beanbags. The menu of southern and soul food has been whittled considerably since Louisiana restaurateur Jimmy Leonard initially restyled this place into a barbecue joint circa 2005. Still, juicy brisket and pulled pork continue to pair well with cheap beer, and those with a hankerin’ for smothered potatoes can get an order of French fries topped with anything else on the menu—animal or vegetable. Because comfort food deserves comfort drinks, neighborhood liquor maven LeNell Smothers supplies a rotation of whiskeys that make getting to know the locals considerably less intimidating.
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