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Based on the same Japanese-Brazilian-Peruvian fusion concept as its next-door neighbor and partner SushiSamba, this sexy lounge is more raw passion than raw fish. Hot red light glows from the low, curved ceiling covered in leaf-shaped metal cutouts suggesting the steamy South American rainforest. A neon icon representing Argentine-born revolutionary Che Guevara winks at patrons from the wall behind the bar, while Latin-inspired beats provide a laid-back, welcoming soundtrack. Although the bar provides a sultry diversion for diners waiting for tables at the restaurant, the room also draws its own chic after-work and late-night crowd with a well-edited list of cocktails based on sugarcane liquors such as shochu and cachça. Savory bites and small plates will tide your appetite until dinner. While Latin elements often overwhelm the Japanese touches, sushi fans won’t be disappointed. The restaurant’s menu offers a full array of rolls, sushi, and sashimi. Seats can be hard to come by. If showing up early offends your sensibilities as a stylish New Yorker, then be prepared to wait at the bar for one of the low, comfortable tables or banquettes. — Eric Hunter

The intimate Sugar Room, separated from the main room by a sliding door, is a perfect spot for private dinners or parties.

Trademark Drink
Caipirinha (muddled lime, cachaça and sugar with muddled fresh fruit)

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• Spring Buzz (4/18/05)