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In a neighborhood where $9 barely buys a short pour of tannic Napa red, it's a rare treat to find this comfy pub still thriving. Reade Street isn't spectacular, but it's affordable, dependable, and for the right mood, just right. Darkly intimate, stuffed with a homey assemblage of baseball caps and model trains, and boasting a mellow, spot-on jukebox mixing Sinatra, the Pogues and Prince, Reade Street warms without a whiff of pretension. Nine quality taps (featuring a sunny Reade Street Ale) combine with 25 bottled options to sate every hoppy taste. There's also an extensive pub-food roster (tackle the 10-oz burger if you're feeling up for it, or the fresher-than-Michael-Musto salads if you're feeling too much). The affable barkeeps keep important local games on the telly and ensure that you that you taste every draft before committing to a pint. When you emerge into the austere caverns of lower Tribeca, you'll have a new favorite pub—and you'll wonder why you ever spent all that money on Opus One anyway.

The kitchen part of Reade Street Pub & Kitchen closes at 1am Monday through Saturday and 11pm on Sunday.