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In a time of low-carb lagers and slickly designed environments in which to drink them, this tavern remains defiantly—and refreshingly—old school. And yet the charming Christmas lights strung around the top of the walls year-round and the festive, seasonally changing window displays draw a thoroughly new-school, hipster clientele, who seem to regard the proprietor lovingly (if a bit warily). And, why wouldn’t they? It serves what basically amounts to a Bedford Ave. blue-plate special: 32 ounces of Bud in a giant Styrofoam cup, for only $4. — Sean Kennedy