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This clean, comfortable brewpub, with its fancied-up bar food, sweet-natured staff, and frequent Bugaboo sightings, seems at first glance to have been whisked off its foundations in Park Slope and plopped down in Williamsburg by a tornado. It's not quite what you'd expect from owner Tom Schmitz, who has been a proud resident of the 'burg long before the area saw its first designer stroller—in fact, he also owns venerable indie record shop Earwax down the block. But regardless of the bar's bona fides, the hipper-than-thou rockers who slink by with a disdainful glance towards the open front window and sleek signage are missing the point: it's much more fun to sit inside watching the parade, or to canoodle in one of the delightfully private booths, with dividers that go all the way up to the ceiling. In fact, in the form of a frosty pint of Smithwick's, gentrification goes down remarkably smooth. — Emily Gould