At the craft-beer bar Pony Bar, patrons rest frosty glasses on giant oak beer barrels serving as tables and share seats at long, low open-faced booths. The décor includes a tattered American flag that predates Hawaii and Alaska, a framed black-and-white photo of a fresh-faced Neil Young, and an ancient map of the Adirondacks; the wood paneling and hanging antique canoe complete the refined all-American feel. But it’s not just a theme: All beer here is domestic. A electronic screen touting the craft offerings of the day (they update when the kegs kick) sits behind the bar, scoured by the aficionados making themselves comfortable; they sink into the cushioned seats, gladly accepting the bartenders’ generously doled shot-glass tastings. Everyone gets to rank the brews on scorecards, and when you rate 100 different beers, you’re granted entrance into the All-American Club, which gets you a free polo shirt.