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Opened in 2004 by local proprietor Adam Robertson, Total has the homey feel of a Sloper's housewarming with a decidedly better selection of wine. Old-time jazz sets the tone as couples on dates, girls on the town, and the pre-dinner crowd gather on weathered stools around a glowing U-shaped bar. The bar also functions as a light box for the nearly thirty varieties of wine available by the glass (which you can also drink at one of the lit-up tables by the entrance). A whiff of the Falanghina does indeed reveal notes of butterscotch and the Australian shiraz lives up to its claim of a "milk chocolatey finish." Other menu descriptions like "yumbo" and "wicked good" eschew the usual sommelier stuffiness, as do the low tumblers in lieu of more traditional glasses. Refined tastes are also rewarded with snacks like pate and smoked kielbasa, as well as cheese plates from nearby Blue Apron Foods, and unique brews like Schneider Weisse sure to satisfy those who not enticed by the grape. — Deborah Goldberg

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