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262 Fourth Ave.,
Brooklyn, NY 11215
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Walk in the front door, and you’re in Root Hill Cafe. Walk in a side door marked with a pink lantern and you’re standing in the very same room, only now it’s Trash Pony Bar. The coffee shop/bar--the latter operating just on weekends, for now--is an agreeable enough place. Beer and wine is local, and co-owner Maria Bowen mixes liquor-free drinks that are strange yet lovable. The slurry-like Shivering Pony pairs frozen fruit concentrate with a potent wine product called Rhumbero, and the bubblegum soju has been steeped with honest-to-god Dubble Bubble. Bowen plans to make seasonal drink infusions and has hired chef Heather Cunningham to fatten up the menu, which is now limited to a few comfort-food dishes like a parmesan-crusted grilled cheese and a sloppy joe with blue cheese (and, if you’re in a breakfast mood, some muffins and pastries). The vibe in the “bar,” roughly located in a bench-and-table-strewn area in the back of the room, is coffee-shop comfortable, with chill music playing continuously and the inevitable loner with a laptop lighting up the gloom.
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