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With its earthy wood grains and eerie Day of the Dead-inspired candles, this LES tequila bar and taqueria evokes a subterranean desert respite more than a hotel bar. Slink over to a tight rectangular bar to sample one of dozens of tequilas and mezcals, or take a seat along the perimeter of the open, wood-paneled interior to order a cocktail every bit as spicy as the menu’s carnitas. An interspersing of large groups, couples and mezcal enthusiasts keeps the atmosphere fresher than at many other neighborhood spots, ensuring that neither the after-work crowd nor the cumpleaños-toasting revelers overwhelm the varied scene. — Kent Cherny