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A covered entry tunnel leads away from the madness of West 4th Street to a hideaway reminiscent of Carroll Gardens. On what might previously have been a carriage-house patio, NYU students and beer scholars, seated at garden chairs pulled up to wooden two-tops, pore over instructional menus of 13 drafts and 31 bottles (11 ounces to 1.5 liters), all of them Belgian and more than a few from Trappist breweries. On tap, Lindemans Framboise has all the thickness and bitter-sweetness of a fizzy raspberry smoothie; La Chouffe and Leffe Blond are popular creamy whites; and Corsendonk is a smooth-drinking, malty brown abbey ale. As night falls, overhead lights cast a red glow, and the chilly move to the squat, candlelit cabin behind the garden, where they mix at the communal tables of aged dark wood (or, for that matter, in the long bathroom line). Once they've snagged one of the overstuffed Victorian chairs in the corner, they're likely to be there for the night: Why leave to pound a slice at Ben's when one can share mussels and soggy, salty frites dipped in any of a dozen flavors of mustard or mayo? — Daniel Maurer