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With its uneven planked floors, marble tables and glass cabinets filled with old black-and-white photos, Von feels like some family-owned tavern in Provence. Or maybe it's the booze that creates the continental vibe: about two dozen wines by the glass and a savvy selection of hefty Eurobeers (Chimay, Duvel, Schneiderweisse . . .). The crowd, however, is strictly East Village—equal parts Bowery (struggling-musician types sporting leather jackets and Dickies) and Bond Street (PR assistants in Katayone Adeli and Daryl K). Savor a glass of Portuguese vinho verde—at $7, it's a good bet. — Jenifer Van Vleck

Best seats in the house? The worn wingback chairs by the front windows—if you don't mind being lovingly harassed by the owners' (thoroughly harmless) pitbull, Happy.