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With its uneven planked floors, marble tables, and glass cabinets filled with old black-and-white photos, Von feels a bit like a family-owned tavern in Provence. Or maybe it's the booze that creates the Continental vibe: The offerings here include about three dozen wines by the glass and a savvy selection of hefty Eurobeers (Duvel, Schneider-Weisse). The crowd, however, is strictly East Village—equal parts Bowery (struggling-musician types sporting leather jackets and Dickies) and Bond Street (PR assistants in Daryl K). Savor a glass of Portuguese vinho verde—at $7, it's a good bet. Downstairs, be prepared to get cozy with strangers: Von tacked on its no-cover basement lounge in mid ’09, and East Villagers flocked in shoulder-rubbing droves. You’ll find 21st-century new wave swilling through a room with a ceiling comprised entirely of wine corks, a second bar with more wine and more beer, and a flagstone floor smooth enough to pass out on. — Jenifer Van Vleck and John Wheeler-Rappe

Best seats in the house? The worn wingback chairs by the front windows—if you don't mind being lovingly harassed by the owners' (thoroughly harmless) pitbull, Happy.