L at Morgan Ave.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
This saloon turned factory turned gastropub lies on a somewhat desolate corner in Bushwick. The rustic entrance opens to a large bar area, followed by an even larger separate dining room in back of the restaurant. Spacious wooden booths line either side of the room, with a curtained stage at the end. The wide, empty floor space in between, along with the high ceilings, gives the room the feeling of an Eastern European drinking hall. The turn-of-the-century-inspired menu jumps around the globe, often within a single dish. Fried pigs’ ears are bready and salty, more like crispy shoestring onions than the usually chewy protein, with pickled-pepper mayo and curry leaves. Also on the snack menu is a tall pile of battered sweetbreads, which come next to a puddle of cheese sauce that's rich and tasty. The Peking duck breast with red-cabbage and spaetzle is a nice example of the rotating selection of gamey dishes—and there's even some offal on the menu, too. It's best to kick back with a cocktail (with house-made bitters) and a few small snacks.