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In today’s dining scene, an aspiring restauranteur needs to emulate a business man; where the latter needs a mission statement, the former needs, above all, a concept. Thus 24 Prince, whose concept—comfort food in chic surroundings—is expressed in American staples like Cobb salad and hamburgers served in a cozy setting (plush banquettes and retro lamps) fit for those who strut their fashionable stuff on the Nolita sidewalks. It’s not only the diners who’re dressed up, although some look more Wall Street than Mott Street; old-school dishes get new duds, too. Pigs in a blanket, for instance, here are nuggets of spicy merguez sausage wrapped in puff pastry—a tasty snack that disappears all too quickly. Count on the sweetly creamy mac-and-cheese and hearty fried chicken. If the service is a bit disorganized, at least the waiters and waitresses recognize it, and just might comp you a drink or dessert. Which is a concept anyone can support. — Matt Gross

Meat loaf and mashed potatoes, $16; fried chicken, $18; macaroni and cheese, $14