Profile

“Charm” is so prevalent in the West Village that you have to wonder if tenants are handed style guides along with their leases. At this cozy, low-ceilinged restaurant, the unspoken mission of the neighborhood is furthered via tiny floral arrangements on wooden tables and handwritten chalkboards announcing desserts and cocktails like the Coffee 41 (a cinnamon-laced espresso concoction on the rocks). The mustard-and-orange plaid wallpaper harkens back to the sixties, but the menu favors luxe updates of fifties comfort food alongside familiar global dishes. The pork chop is a winning classic—briny and moist, dotted with whole peppercorns, and served over a bed of tender turnips and carrots; the onion-infused burger is a bit dry but well-seasoned, the two-inch patty studded all over with a coating of minced onion. (It’s worth ordering just for the accompanying pile of super-thin homemade potato chips.) 41 Greenwich Avenue had to change its name after a trademark infringement lawsuit threat. Now with legal worries over, the owners are back to providing West Villagers with the warmth they’ve come to expect of their local spots. — Ganda Suthivarakom

Pork chop, $21